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Whenever compiling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate familiar award-winning venues. However, situated high among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This honour has left the proprietors completely astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” states a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small restaurant achieving such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has maintained much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that price.

A Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.